Another 8A has gone down in Magic Wood – just three days
after the first.
Super Nova (7C) is a classic line on the massive ‘Bruno’
block by the river - it climbs a 45 degree sloping, glassy ramp. The original line (now Super Supernova)
climbed only the sloping rail, since the first ascensionist chose not to use
(or didn't notice) the lower holds on the right. Since the first ascent, climbers have found
an easier sequence climbing the feature in compression. I first climbed Supernova using the easier
compression method, but was drawn to the challenge of Super Supernova (8A). Although it’s an eliminate, I really wanted
to climb it with the original ‘left ramp’ only beta.
I worked out the moves on Super SuperNova on the first session,
however, it soon became clear that the problem would be linking it. Sending the problem turned out to be an epic
battle - not so much physical, but ultimately more mental. If you want to hear about the battle read on,
alternatively just watch the video…
During the second session I climbed S Supernova in two
overlapping halves. This was a good sign
and gave me the confidence that I would send the problem soon. However, during the third session I realised
that it wasn’t going to be that easy. The
sloping ramp is water worn, glassy and has terrible friction – It was very
difficult to hold and equally challenging to get heels to stick. Warm and greasy conditions made things even
more challenging, especially in the summer.
The fickle nature of the rock made the climbing powerful, yet
subtle. I wasn’t strong enough to
‘over-power’ the climb (Chris Sharma has campussed {no feet} it!), so I had to get all of
the holds exactly right and place my heel perfectly. Body position had to be perfect or I’d be
swiftly thrown onto my arse! Since
subtlety was so important, the climb became a mental battle for me. If I was nervous, tense or trying too hard
I’d fail to get the balance of subtlety and power correct. I’d take holds in the wrong place, pull too
hard (and too little) on the heel, have my hips in the wrong place, rush, go
too slow – the list goes on… On the
third or fourth session I started to reach the jug at the end of the rail –
‘fantastic, I’m nearly there’, or so I thought!
I got to this point four times in one session and it should’ve been
over, but every time my left hand or heel slipped off. I didn’t have enough strength/body tension to
finish it off. Still, I finished that
session pleased with progress, but frustrated to be so close.
Conditions continued to be fickle, so I returned at 8am one
morning to beat the warmth and the crowds…
The ‘Bruno’ block is very famous since it features many classics including
the impressive and super pumpy Never-ending Story. The crowds were sometimes a problem as I struggled
with focus and the rock got extremely greasy when handled by many sweaty
mitts! Early morning visits stacked the
odds in my favour. The following session
was again heartbreakingly close! OK, I
got closer, but so close it hurt so much to fail…! I’d once again struggled to focus and kept
falling when I shouldn’t. Eventually I
made it to the end and (only just) stuck the move to the jug. This was it, my chance – I was so close and
just had to do two easy moves and then match the finishing sloper. I was so pumped and the now sun-drenched
holds were very greasy. I struggled to
hold on and fought to the final sloper… I just managed to catch it with my left
hand, but had nothing left to match it and slid off onto the floor. The battle with S Supernova had become epic
and I was feeling beaten. I’d near
enough climbed the climb, and it felt like finishing it was just a formality –
I just had to put both hands on the finish hold. The mental battle had become the crux - I was
no longer enjoying the climbing and was really losing the desire to climb it…
It was time to walk away and take a break – failure was
starting to hurt and motivation had gone.
I focussed on other climbs and found a completely different 8A to focus
on – Foxy Lady. This renewed my interest
in climbing and I regained my psyche.
Foxy Lady went down quickly and became my first 8A boulder (see blog
post
'Finally... an 8A!').
We decided to leave Magic Wood, so I went for one final
session on S Supernova. Conditions
conspired against me - It rained for 24 hours and on the morning of our
departure the problem was soaked.
Unperturbed and armed with toilet paper I went to dry the problem – It
felt fruitless, but I had to at least try... Two hours later the problem was
greasy and sort of climbable – I slipped off repeatedly and couldn’t foresee
success. Friends had come to watch and
I was feeling like a failure and really struggling to focus. I was trying too hard, yet not managing to
achieve the subtlety required to send the problem. My friends and Claire sensed my frustration
and decided to leave me on my own. I had
to sort out my head and climb the problem.
I spent thirty minutes trying to relax and focussed on removing the
doubts and negative thoughts from my head.
I spent time focussing on where I was falling and working out how to
improve what I was doing. I focussed on
the micro details and worked out how to change my approach.
The sun hit the problem and the breeze picked up - this was
my chance… Suddenly everything came
together and I reached the end of the sloping rail. Just two moves remained and I still had
energy in reserve. I moved to the finishing sloper and matched hands on it – I had finally sent Super Supernova! It felt so good to finish the problem. Although Foxy Lady was my first 8A, it felt
far more satisfying to eventually end the battle with Super Supernova.
