Marihauna red point attempts

I've now had 3 attempts at red pointing Marihauna (this in addition to the original bolt to bolt go). Good progress so far, although not there yet! My first redpoint attempt ended reasonably early with a harsh realisation that the moves were going to be very hard to link! No one move was right at my limit, however, the crux was tough to do even after resting. The crux would prove particularly tough after climbing 8 long and powerful moves prior to it. Even after the crux there is a series of tough moves (around a 7a+ route), which are gonna be especially difficult when pumped. However, I'm confident that I can get to the top if I can get through the crux sequence. On the second attempt I reached the crux moves, started the first move and fell off! The third go went better and I got over halfway through the crux and fell off just two moves shy of finishing the hardest section.

Trying the route has made me realise that it isn't going to be a pushover! However, I am glad of this as it wouldn't feel like an 8a if I sent it in a few tries. It does feel noticeably harder than the two 7c+'s I've done, its near my limit of power endurance, but I'm confident it will go with the next 4 tries...

The route is very hard to photograph or video as it sets off from a narrow, exposed ledge, however I've attached one photo. It takes the line up the black streak on the wall to the left of the tree - the quick draws are just visible.

Dan and Lisa

Dan came out to visit us for three weeks and his girlfriend, Lisa, joined him for the last week of his trip. Dan bought a pimping van for the holiday and drove from the UK to Spain in pretty much one hit!


We had a great three weeks and Dan was climbing really well; getting his first 7c and a great 7b+ send too. He also did various 7a-7b's. Lisa had a great week of climbing too. It was only her 3rd or 4th time climbing outdoors and she lead some 6a's and did her first 6b+ on top rope.

It was sad to see them both go and we had a lovely leaving dinner on their last night.

Getting high on Marihauna...

I've found an F8a project in Siurana. It's called Marihauna (you can guess what the English translation is!) and is a technical 30m route up a slightly overhanging face. This is my favourite style of climb and what I'm best at - I'll have to play to my strengths for the first F8a! There is no definite crux, but instead a lot of sustained climbing for about 15-20m. The climbing is generally long moves between small, but not terrible holds! I've had one go on it and and done all the moves. I got all moves quickly, except for a couple which took a few goes.

I'm feeling confident that it should go in 4-5 sessions, so we'll see... Planning to have a few redpoint attempts tomorrow.

5 cake points in one day!

I’ve just had a record cake point day! Saturday was our hottest day so far (at 31C) so we opted for Raco de Finestra in Margalef. It’s a North facing crag, but still felt extremely sweaty. I began the day with a F6b+ warm up (didn’t need much warming up though!), then headed over to an amazing looking F7b+ on multiple tufas. I climbed it bolt to bolt first and placed all the quick draws. After a 30 minute rest I went for the redpoint. It went really well and I soon clipped the chains with lots of energy in reserve. Since I was on roll I decided to try a F7c also. I tried it bolt to bolt and soon got brought back down to earth! The route comprised a long crux section from the 2^nd to the 6^th bolt. I struggled with virtually every move and really dogged my way up it! I eventually found ways to do the moves, but didn’t feel very close at all! However, I decided to leave the draws in an look at it again later…

After some rest I decided to have a go at redpointing the route. I wasn’t convinced I’d get far, but gave it a shot. I struggled and fought through the series of powerful moves, and somehow reached the last two moves of the crux sequence. I was very surprised to be there, but had nothing left. I made a long reach up and twisted my hand backwards into a Gaston undercut. I now had to summon some body tension, reach a poor side pull and move my feet. I screamed at the top of my voice, didn’t find any body tension and came flying off. I was annoyed I’d got so close, but equally surprised I’d got anywhere near that far. It was late in the day and I was very tired, but decided to leave the draws in and have one last go…

My back and shoulders were aching horribly and another go seemed futile. I decided to give it a go anyway and embarked on my last attempt. The whole crux sequence went badly; I was so tired and every move felt right on my limit. I struggled on, my body positions were all wrong and my footwork severely lacking – mostly due to my very tired body. Somehow I managed to reach the last two moves of the crux again! I had nothing left, but somehow summoned enough body tension to grind my toe onto the shiny foothold. After a massive fight I’d reached the jug. I was wasted, but managed to struggle up the last half of the climb to the chains! F7b+ and F7c in one day!

A F7a+ at Raco de Finestra.

Feeling Hot, Hot, Hot!!!!

Lately the weather has been really hot - we’ve had daily max temps of 31C! This has meant lovely warm evenings, but very sweaty climbing conditions! We’ve mostly managed to stay cool by climbing in the shade and dunking ourselves into a freezing cold reservoir.

Juan breathing again, just…

At last Juan is back and has a new heart. I went on an epic 15 hour journey to retrieve him. I left Siurana at 7.30am and began with a 22 mile hilly bike ride to Reus. Then took a train to Tarragona and a further (very slow) train to Valencia. In Valencia I needed to get the metro to a connecting station, but unfortunately by bike wasn’t allowed on the train. This meant a 4 mile dash across the centre of the city. I managed to acquire a tourist map from some English tourists and rushed off to catch a train leaving the other station in 15 mins! Normally, 4 miles in 15 minutes would be easy; however, the Valencian road system was a labyrinth of one way streets! All the streets seemed to be no entry, so I got a little creative with the Highway Code and just made it. I spent a further 35 mins on the train and finished with an quick 11 mile ride to reach Juan…

Juan was looking lonely and dusty, but otherwise the same. After paying the mechanic and collecting Juan’s broken bits, I embarked on the nerve-racking and tentative 4 hour drive back to Siurana. The drive was especially tense because Juan was having a strop and not communicating with me! His instrument panel was entirely non-functional – no speed, no engine temperature and no fuel gauge. He wouldn’t even tell me the time! I drove for a few hours and a re-fueled Juan to checked he wasn’t overly thirsty or getting too hot. All seemed well, so I continued onwards. I passed the time by timing my passage between km markers to calculate speed.

Juan developed an additional quirk towards the end of the journey… The throttle started to develop an annoying and dangerous habit of sticking on at 2000-3000 revs. This wasn't ideal, but was solved by dipping the clutch or hooking the accelerator pedal back up with my toe!

We eventually made it back and I collapsed into the comfy bed in the back of the van. Claire and I were back with Juan after 6 weeks!

Is Juan Back…?

We received the long awaited message yesterday that our beloved Juan is finally repaired and ready for us to collect – woop woop.

Jase left very early this morning for an epic journey involving 25 mile cycle, 3 trains and another 15km cycle (almost like some weird triathlon!). He then has to drive all the way from south Valencia back to Siruana hopefully with all parts of the engine staying where they should be.

I currently have my fingers crossed that we will all be safely reunited sometime this evening.