Fontainebleau Part 1 - Video

We've done a quick video of our favourite climbs in font so far... 

Click here to view. 

Enjoy. 

7a Celebration…

One of my aims for this trip was to climb font 7a – preferably in Fontainebleau.  After much searching and trying various problems, I eventually found one that suited me but not my normal style! Le Jeu du Toit in Roche aux Sabots – Overhang with slopers and no long reaches. 

After a quick first session I managed to work out most of the moves apart from the last crux moves and top out – all I had to do now was wait for a break in the weather so I could get on it and work the final moves and hopefully have enough energy to finish it.  Unfortunately the problem is slow drying and after many rainy days I began to think it would never be dry…

Finally there was a break in the weather and I headed up to work the problem one evening.  After warming up Le Jeu du Toit was still a little damp, the crucial slopers were still damp but thought seen as I was there I’d give it a go anyhow.  With some drying and power spotting I successfully figured out the remaining moves all that was left to do was send the problem.  Whilst resting something strange happened - there was suddenly a slight breeze and the holds completely dried.  Now I had no excuses – I knew the moves and conditions were great I just had to send it. 

It went surprisingly easily in my first link attempt!  It almost felt like a slight let down to send it so quickly as I was expecting much more of a fight to get to the top – but really I’m completely chuffed!  I celebrated that evening and drank my 7a champagne (I even let Jase have a glass!).  

There's a video on Font Part 1 

Hopefully I’ve now broken the mental 7’s barrier and can manage to squeeze one or two more in before the end of the trip. 

A good day out...

I had a great day out on Saturday and sent two 7C's in the forest.  I think they're both soft, but they are awesome problems and it was great to get both in a day.

I went out in Franchard Isatis and Hautes Plaines with Duma, a friend from Bristol.  Duma was psyched to get on L'Arrache Coeur - a stunning, high roof/wall problem with the crux where it should be... at the end!  Duma disptached it fast and my ascent followed a few goes later.  It was great to send such a classic problem, with great moves and an exciting finale.

L'Arrache Coeur VIDEO

Buoyed with our success we moved on to Deau Faux Plis en Plat Reels an amazing 45 degree overhanging wall.  The boulder is an awesome disc shape and looks like a flying saucer that has crashed into the forest.  There are two distinct sloping ledges, which are big, but quite poor given the angle of the face.  I spent a little while working the moves and eventually devised a good sequence to do the final move.  This move had eluded me on a previous session, so it was good to finally work it out.  I had done all the moves and just had to link it...



Linking the problem proved difficult as I kept falling on the final flick to the lip.  I caught the lip many times, but kept dabbing the low ground behind.  After quite a few goes and some subtle refinement, I managed to stick the last move and keep my heel/toe cam in.

Deux Faux Plis en Plat Reels VIDEO

Alive and Kicking...!

Sorry for the lack of recent updates.  We are still in the beautiful forest around Fontainebleau, and climbing as much as the weather allows.  Claire has been sending quite a few 6's and is getting pretty close on a 7A - watch this space...!  I have been climbing lots of lower 7's and have recently had some good success on some 7C's  - details to follow soon...

The weather has been variable, however we have certainly managed to climb enough to tire our bodies and skin.  The super-bright LED lights have been used for many evening bouldering sessions too.

We met an a lovely couple - Rob and Veronica - who have been great fun to socialise and climb with.  They even have a 'Beastmaker' for those rainy days!  They're van is palatial (sorry Juan) compared to ours and I'm particularly jealous of the space to stand up straight.

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly...

THE GOOD: After a moist start in Fontainebleau, the weather turned really good.  We were fortunate enough to get over a week of beautiful weather - cold temperatures, bright sunshine and awesome conditions!  We climbed loads and had to rest on sunny day because we were so tired.

THE BAD: One day we returned to the van and our German friend's window had been smashed!  Luckily Juan's windows were in tact, but someone had re-arranged the van slightly...  Not bad, just a things in a different place.  Initially, it was unclear how they got in, then we realised they'd forced the passenger door lock.  Amazing they took nothing, even though my phone was out.  Our German friend had just lost a bag of clothes...?  Font is known for breaks ins, so hopefully that was our only one!

 THE UGLY: I've been using clippers to trim my hair and shaggy face, and decided to chop the mop!  The clippers cut random chunks out of my hair and then ceased to work!  I was left with a rather un-fetching hairstyle.  Claire managed to tidy it up with some blunt kitchen scissors and I've since bought some new clippers!

UPDATE: Varazze Video

We left Varazze a couple of weeks ago and have just finished compiling a video of some climbing... Enjoy!

Varazze Bouldering Video

Back in the Forest...

We have reached the beautiful forest of Fontainebleau!  We've been here for about 10 days and have managed to climb a reasonable amount given the terrible weather! The sun has been extremely rare and rain commonplace. However, some creativity and perseverance has meant that we've actually been climbing quite a bit. We've only been visiting the quick-drying spots and have been going out even when the weather seems poor... The persistence has usually been rewarded with some dry spells and occasionally some surprisingly good conditions. We purchased some very bright LED lights (usually for night biking) and have managed to have two very good evening sessions.

The forecast looks good for the coming week, so we're excited about have a wide choice of climbs and finally trying to dry out moist Juan!