Sunday, March 2, 2014

The bold and the beautiful...

At last the final volume of the La Pedriza is finished!


After a month in Albarracin we returned to Pedriza and discovered many more spectacular lines.  The local crew had been busy and discovered more awesome boulder problems.

On the crux of Martina Dry
Claire returned to Los Guerreros and quickly dispatched her project - I think the steeper climbing of Albarracin had improved our fitness a little.  I was still plagued by my elbow/shoulder injury so unfortunately my projects were off the agenda. However, I still climbed some beautiful lines and had a great time climbing with the local crew again.

Claire on Los Guerreros
Rob and Sam (the English guys we'd met in Albarracin) joined us too. They really liked Pedriza too, but needed a week for their skin to toughen up...  Al and Jen (the Scottish couple we'd met in Albarracin) joined us also.  They were a great crowd to climb with and we tried to show them the sights of the area.

It was great to catch up with all of the local guys again.  They showed us a new area near El Boalo and we climbed a stunning arete called El Pajillero (shown on video thumbnail above).  I won't tell you what the name means since its not such a beautiful name...!  It was very sad to leave Pedriza and we will really miss the local crew.  It was great to meet such warm, friendly, kind and generous people - THANK YOU GUYS, WE WILL MISS YOU....!

Marieti on the first ascent of X-men
Moon rise over the distinctive rocks
Looking for Balance


Monday, February 3, 2014

Red rock, elbows and shoulders...

Claire working A Ciegas
Its been a while since our last post, so we thought we'd let you all know we're alive and well. It seems that even Spain can't escape the bad winter weather hitting Europe. I don't think its as bad as the UK, but the weather fronts seems to be rolling in with a relentless monotony. We fled Pedriza and found slightly better weather in Albarracin...

Cold weather and beautiful snowscapes...
We spent 7 weeks in Albarracin last year and by the end were ready to head off to new challenges. We returned this year with a new desire (and hopefully more strength) to finish off old projects. Albarracin was a little bit of a shock to our bodies after the techinal style of La pedriza, however, we soon adjusted and things began well - we both felt stronger and sent some great new lines. We returned to old projects and were making good progress... However, two weeks in I picked up an injury... The dreaded font elbow struck on the sloping top out of Fonteneblistico (a little ironic)! I didn't feel it too much at the time, but it felt pretty serious for the following days. Its been plaguing me for over two weeks now and is only now showing signs of recovery. I've been stretching and exercising lots and managed to get out for some very easy days on the rock (perhaps managing 20 moves in a session!). It's been very frustrating as I'm pretty confident I could have sent Pinturas Buldetres (8A), La Fuente (7C) and El orejas de las regletas (7C+). C'est la vie!

Claire sending La La Grima
To add injury to injury Claire hurt her shoulder too. Annoyingly, she did it trying to move a crash pad. She's been out for over a week, but had a pretty successful return to climbing yesterday. Her shoulder isn't perfect yet, but seems to be on the mend. She has various projects from 6C to 7A+ and may still realise some of them before we move on...

Rob on Techo Don Pepo
Sam on Cagamiento en el filamento
Although we've been out of action for a few weeks, we've still had a great time here. We've met lots of great people and still been out climbing vicariously through others! We've spent lots of time with Rob and Sam - a couple of English guys who have just embarked on a year-long road trip.  They are great fun to go climbing with (and mostly watch them climbing!), and we've had some good social evenings...  


Beers to behold!
One night in the town was particularly (un) memorable - when many beers were consumed.  The beers were quite something - served in very tall glasses with copious quantities of head! We also have made good use of the BBQ area and revived the tradition of 'Burger Monday' (first conceived [to our knowledge] by South African Chris!). We collected lots of wood and warmed ourselves around a roaring fire.  The local butchers provided ample fodder for a gluttonous evening. We've had two burger Mondays, and plan to continue the tradition this evening!

Night out on the tiles...!




Saturday, January 4, 2014

La Pedriza Volume II


Volume II of our video is finished...!  It'll be a few weeks until Volume III since the weather here is atrocious. We're off to Albarracin for a week or two...


Tuesday, December 31, 2013

La Pedriza


Lendi on El Arbol del Ahorcado
I'm sure you're all wondering where we've been for the last 6 weeks... Well, we've been in the beautiful National Park of La Pedriza. Situated 30 miles North of Madrid, La Pedriza is one of the lesser known bouldering areas in Spain. We'd seen some awesome photos of the area in the Bouldering Guide and had to check it out for ourselves. We had heard stories of the sharp granite, so were slightly nervous about how our skin would fair...

Read on or go straight to La Pedriza Bouldering Volume I:


On day one we visited Canto Cochino - one of the more classic areas. The area gives a great introduction to the style of climbing in La Pedriza - technical, slopey and requiring good footwork. It feels similar to Fontainebleau, but on a medium grained granite. The boulders range from low to pretty damn high and scary - something for everyone! On our first day we were fortunate enough to bump into the local climbing crew.  A fantastic group of Spanish climbers (their Blog), who gave us an extremely warm welcome. They instantly took us under their wing and pointed me at a load of highball classics.  My skin took a bit of a pounding (nothing too serious though), however, it was a great introduction to area.

Groucho
We have spent many days with the local crew and been guided to many great new areas not in the guide. Although the guide includes nearly 2000 problems, the local climbers are developing new boulders at an astounding rate, their motivation and commitment to expanding the area is incredible.  The potential is still vast - there are currently many projects and second ascents just waiting to be climbed.  Its not all hard either, first ascents are available at all grades.

Lomo on Garrapata

The local crew have been pointing me at various lines waiting for a first or second ascent.  Some of the lines are breathtaking, and I've been fortunate enough to get second ascents on some beautiful problems.  The details of these will be in Volume III of the videos. I've not managed any first ascents yet, but have been trying a few tough lines in the 7C-8A region...

Los Guerreros
Arroitatostegui
El Jardin de mi Casa

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Toulouse and Targasonne...






It's been a while since our last update, so you may be a little confused about our whereabouts...  After Annot and La Camargue we visited Adrian, Delphine, Liam and Luka in Toulouse.  It was great to see them again and catch up since our last visit.  The swimming pool (for which I'd helped with the landscaping earlier in the year) was now finished so we had to try it out.  It wasn't heated, so felt a little Baltic in November!

From Toulouse we stopped in a Targasonne for a couple of weeks - we couldn't resist the great climbing and fantastic scenery, oh and perhaps the hot springs tempted us too!  We met up with some other English climbers from Bristol - Hugh, Ross and Lucy.

Unfortunately Claire had a bout of Autumnal 'Flu' so didn't get to climb too much.  I ventured out lots with Ross and Hugh and finished off lots of the classic 7B and 7B+'s.  I got very close on Eroto Mechanics 8A, but it wasn't to be!

After Targasonne we ventured Further South to la Pedriza - a lesser known granite area North of Madrid.  We were anticipating a long drive so left early.  Our journey took slightly longer than expected because Juan's engine cut out whilst travelling at 50mph!  It turned out that our fuel gauge is not very accurate!  We had, for the first time ever, run out of fuel.  Of course, Sod's law dictated that it would be cold, raining hard and 10km to the nearest fuel station.  I hadn't been running for over a year, but saw this as a good opportunity to get some training in!  Forty five minutes later I arrived sweaty and wet at the Petrol station. I acquired a Jerry can and filled it will diesel.  Fortunatley, a Spanish farmer recognised my plight and offered a very welcome lift back to Claire and Juan.  After a one hour break, we were on our way again! After a very windy drive we arrived in La Pedriza that evening, found a quiet spot and relaxed for the night... La Pedriza post coming soon!


Thursday, October 17, 2013

La Camargue



After all the climbing in Annot we felt we deserved a little rest and what better than chilling out on the beach.  Our friends had told us about their stay in La Camargue which sounded lovely and we weren’t disappointed!

As we drove down the road among the salty mud flats it wasn’t long before we were greeted with all the sights that the Camargue is famous for.   White horses (we didn’t see any wild ones on the drive in but we did see a large herd on the drive out!), the black bulls and flamingos!  Not a sight I expected to see in Europe. 

Flamingos!


We seemed to be stopping every 50m to take a photo of something. 

White Horse
We soon arrived at the end of the road and onto the beach – we parked up on the beach with awesome 360 degrees view of the sea, beach and wild life; we quickly settled in for the evening drinking a beer, watching the sun set over the sea and dipping our toes into the pleasantly warm sea.



The next morning we watched the sun rise with coffee and croissants in bed and went for a walk along the beach.  It was pretty much deserted and so wasn’t long before we went in for a quick dip!



We left later that day to arrive in Toulouse before the Friday rush hour – a short but very lovely stay.  Spotting loads of wild life on the road out once again.  Unfortunately no pictures but we did see some White Storks, Little Egrets and possible the Purple Heron! Also a couple of Muskrats. 

More Flamingos

Monday, October 14, 2013

Cake, Croissants & Cheese …

…Oh and hopefully some climbing – I love being back in France.  


With the weather remaining unstable in Switzerland we decided it was time to head south and find some dry rock to climb on.  We were both feeling frustrated with the lack of climbing over the past few weeks so after much discussion (and the eventual decision to extend our planned 6 month road trip once again - up to 1 year so far) we had a plan - we are off to Spain for the winter, again.   It’s a long drive though so we’ll be making a few stops along the way. 

First stop – Super Marche. 

After being on a restricted food budget for our time in Switzerland our first supermarket shop in France was a little extravagant!  We were like kids in a sweet shop, only we have credit cards.  I couldn't help it; we stacked the trolley with my favourite food products of France, of which there are many.  Yes indeed, in went the cake, the croissants, various cheeses and a little wine of course.  With the van fully stocked time to find some climbing (while we still can).

Next stop – Annot

We’d heard mixed reports about Annot as a climbing venue but seeing as it was (kind of) on the way and the weather forecast looked good we thought we’d check it out for ourselves. 

The road up to the climbing areas is a long dirt track – especially to some of the higher areas!  After the long drive up the track we arrived at one of the first areas we decided to look at.  We walked around with a growing feeling of disappointment the boulders were looking unclimbed, over grown and sandy and very poor quality.  Had we driven all this way for nothing? Well, no climbing we had the cake at least!  Trying to remain positive we decided to check out the next sector – Madness. 

It was a smallish, compact sector a dozen or so blocs.  This time the lines looked good, they were clean and the rock mostly solid.  Quick lets climb…

ANNOT VIDEO WITH ADDITIONAL FOOTAGE FROM THE BEAUTIFUL CAMARGUE

The Font-like slopey, rounded boulders were perfect for my recovering finger injury – which seriously dislikes crimping at the moment.  For the first time in a while I was able to run around throwing myself at everything in sight – ah not a crimp in sight.  

Check out my ninja moves...
We were both enjoying the change of climbing style - It wasn’t long before we we’re both tiring from the days climbing and with thoughts of conserving the skin on our fingers for the next days.   These sandstone boulders and slightly courser grain than Fontainebleau so skin conservation is a must but nice climbing and some strong lines.

Jase enjoying the climbing and blue sky.

We discovered the perfect campsite most of the way up the dirt road.  Pleasantly situated in the dense forest with good - though a little rustic -facilities (the water in the showers was hot and lots of it which is the important thing) at very reasonable price and very convenient no need to drive up and down the dirt track every day.  The rest of the sectors we climbed in were all good - nice lines with lots to try.  The rock can be a little sandy in some places but there are plenty of other boulders to try.   

Our last climbing day broke with beautiful clear blue skies, unbroken sunshine and a brisk breeze – the perfect climbing conditions.  As we were only spending a short amount of time in the area there wasn’t time to project the problems so it was nice to not get caught up with grades and climbing hard and just climb the things that look cool and not worry if you don’t send the problem.  By the end of the day we were both exhausted – a short day of 10 hours bouldering!  I couldn’t bring myself to touch the rock again my fingers were raw.   A lovely end to a very pleasant stay in Annot.

A week didn't seem long enough to explore all the areas Annot has to offer. We would definitely stop by if we are in the area again.   

Interesting Mushrooms in the Forest of Annot
Time to recover on the beach I think…