Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Bleau 2014 Video

Sorry its taken a while.. Our Fontainebleau 2014 video is here - fun times with friends in the forest!


(We are back in the UK now and will post an update of what we're up to very soon!)


Friday, April 18, 2014

Dans la Foret...

De Fil en Aiguille
We're actually nearing the end of our epic road trip... Yes, honestly, we are coming back soon!  We'll be back in early May, and we're spending our last weeks in the the beautiful forest of Fontainebleau. We've already spent some months of our trip here, but love it so much that we had to finish the trip here.  Most importantly it's a popular time to visit the forest and many of friends are visiting too.  We're having a great time climbing and catching up with lots of people whom we've missed lots on our travels.

Eyeing up the crimp on Le Petit Toit

Beautiful days...
We've mostly focussed on climbing with friends and having lots of fun, although we have tried to project some harder lines too.  Claire has been crushing and already sent Festin de Piere 7A, Action Direct 7A, La Coquille 6C and Duel dans la Lune 6C.  She has been eyeing up some 7A+ lines, but it still trying to find one with non-reachy moves - very difficult in Font!

Falling from the top
Finding the balance
I've been a little less productive, but do seem to have a long list of problems I'm close to!  However, I was very psyched to send La Directe du Surplombe de la Mee - possibly my first 8A in the forest, although opinions seem to differ on the grade. Very tall people seem to think its 7C+, however they are tall enough to reach past the hardest move on the problem. I'm generally good at being tall and reaching through, but just couldn't manage it on this problem.  I climbed all the moves except one in the first session, but spent another 2 sessions trying to accomplish one foot move.  With some help from Ross I adapted my beta and found a solution to link the two halves of the problem.  I got very close in the next session, and fell right off the top. This was quite scary as I fell from 5 metres with my right heel above my head, fortunately I managed to land on my feet!

Sticking the lip
I'm trying various other lines from 7C-8A, but good conditions seem to be very elusive.  We've been here for 6 weeks and its hardly rained at all (almost unheard of in Font).  This is great for climbing lots, but it has been unseasonably warm - we had 23C at the beginning of March! We've found some better conditions in the mornings and evenings, but generally only get good 'sending temps' once or twice a week.  We're not complaining though, since its much better than rain!

That's enough rambling for now, so we'll finish with more photos....

Trying to turn the arete...

Dave sticking the dyno on La Superbe



Squeezing hard on Le Proueptologue

Visualising...

Le Kraken Droite

Action girl

Dan being beautiful

Ben throwing shapes...

Squeezing (again) on Papillion


Simon on La Quille
Golden Grass


Sunday, March 2, 2014

The bold and the beautiful...

At last the final volume of the La Pedriza is finished!


After a month in Albarracin we returned to Pedriza and discovered many more spectacular lines.  The local crew had been busy and discovered more awesome boulder problems.

On the crux of Martina Dry
Claire returned to Los Guerreros and quickly dispatched her project - I think the steeper climbing of Albarracin had improved our fitness a little.  I was still plagued by my elbow/shoulder injury so unfortunately my projects were off the agenda. However, I still climbed some beautiful lines and had a great time climbing with the local crew again.

Claire on Los Guerreros
Rob and Sam (the English guys we'd met in Albarracin) joined us too. They really liked Pedriza too, but needed a week for their skin to toughen up...  Al and Jen (the Scottish couple we'd met in Albarracin) joined us also.  They were a great crowd to climb with and we tried to show them the sights of the area.

It was great to catch up with all of the local guys again.  They showed us a new area near El Boalo and we climbed a stunning arete called El Pajillero (shown on video thumbnail above).  I won't tell you what the name means since its not such a beautiful name...!  It was very sad to leave Pedriza and we will really miss the local crew.  It was great to meet such warm, friendly, kind and generous people - THANK YOU GUYS, WE WILL MISS YOU....!

Marieti on the first ascent of X-men
Moon rise over the distinctive rocks
Looking for Balance


Monday, February 3, 2014

Red rock, elbows and shoulders...

Claire working A Ciegas
Its been a while since our last post, so we thought we'd let you all know we're alive and well. It seems that even Spain can't escape the bad winter weather hitting Europe. I don't think its as bad as the UK, but the weather fronts seems to be rolling in with a relentless monotony. We fled Pedriza and found slightly better weather in Albarracin...

Cold weather and beautiful snowscapes...
We spent 7 weeks in Albarracin last year and by the end were ready to head off to new challenges. We returned this year with a new desire (and hopefully more strength) to finish off old projects. Albarracin was a little bit of a shock to our bodies after the techinal style of La pedriza, however, we soon adjusted and things began well - we both felt stronger and sent some great new lines. We returned to old projects and were making good progress... However, two weeks in I picked up an injury... The dreaded font elbow struck on the sloping top out of Fonteneblistico (a little ironic)! I didn't feel it too much at the time, but it felt pretty serious for the following days. Its been plaguing me for over two weeks now and is only now showing signs of recovery. I've been stretching and exercising lots and managed to get out for some very easy days on the rock (perhaps managing 20 moves in a session!). It's been very frustrating as I'm pretty confident I could have sent Pinturas Buldetres (8A), La Fuente (7C) and El orejas de las regletas (7C+). C'est la vie!

Claire sending La La Grima
To add injury to injury Claire hurt her shoulder too. Annoyingly, she did it trying to move a crash pad. She's been out for over a week, but had a pretty successful return to climbing yesterday. Her shoulder isn't perfect yet, but seems to be on the mend. She has various projects from 6C to 7A+ and may still realise some of them before we move on...

Rob on Techo Don Pepo
Sam on Cagamiento en el filamento
Although we've been out of action for a few weeks, we've still had a great time here. We've met lots of great people and still been out climbing vicariously through others! We've spent lots of time with Rob and Sam - a couple of English guys who have just embarked on a year-long road trip.  They are great fun to go climbing with (and mostly watch them climbing!), and we've had some good social evenings...  


Beers to behold!
One night in the town was particularly (un) memorable - when many beers were consumed.  The beers were quite something - served in very tall glasses with copious quantities of head! We also have made good use of the BBQ area and revived the tradition of 'Burger Monday' (first conceived [to our knowledge] by South African Chris!). We collected lots of wood and warmed ourselves around a roaring fire.  The local butchers provided ample fodder for a gluttonous evening. We've had two burger Mondays, and plan to continue the tradition this evening!

Night out on the tiles...!




Saturday, January 4, 2014

La Pedriza Volume II


Volume II of our video is finished...!  It'll be a few weeks until Volume III since the weather here is atrocious. We're off to Albarracin for a week or two...