Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas to you all!

We cheated a little and left Juan in a car park for Christmas and New Year.  We got a great deal on an apartment so treated ourselves to the luxury of warmth and hot showers.

We decided on lamb for Christmas dinner and went to the butchers to get some tasty meat.  My Spanish was slightly lacking and the butcher brought out an entire lamb.  After some gesturing he hacked the lamb down the middle and chopped a leg off.  We ended up with a very tasty looking leg of Lamb.  The apartment was lacking an oven, so we slow cooked the lamb in a large pan for 5 hours.  It was awesome! The lamb was complimented with a great bottle of red from 'Les Twitchies' - Thank you!

The van animals (Derek, Simon, Chad, Nigel, Caesar, Burt and Glen) joined us for Christmas too.  It was a pretty rowdy affair, especially when they got hold of the Whiskey miniatures!  Many thanks to my parents who provided a lovely bag of prevents, which we literally put under the tree!

Danian and Pinturas Buldestres - 7C+'s!

Psyched....!  Got my first 7C+ (Danian) and quickly followed it with my second (Pinturas Buldestres).  Danian almost went in one session and was quickly dispatched during the second session.  If I'm honest, I'd say it felt soft... Perhaps it suited me, and it certainly helped to be taller.  It's not the most impressive looking boulder, but it did climb well. Danian 7C+ video

I was much more psyched about sending Pinturas Buldestres 7C+ (stand start).  Pinturas is a beautiful problem up the middle of an overhanging scoop.  The holds are small crimps and the feet very technical.  On first inspection the problem looked pretty straightforward.  However, when pulling on I realised it was far from straightforward!  All the holds are at 45 degrees and the feet are small and difficult to weight.  The position and angle of the holds makes the moves very brutal on the shoulders!  I only just managed the first move during the first session.  I got close on the second session and managed to send it on the third session - so pleased to send such a stunning problem.  It felt noticeably harder than any of the 7C's I've done, so I feel pretty confident it weighs in around 7C+.  There is a sit which goes at 8A too... I did all the sit moves after sending the stand, and am pretty sure I can do the sit in another session or two.  Watch this space...
Pinturas Buldestres 7C+ video

Climbing, Climbing and more Climbing!

The weather has been perfect over the last few weeks - cool and sunny! The friction on the rock is great and the sun is warm enough to stop us freezing (just!).  We've been busy sending lots of problems. Claire has sent lots of 6B's, 6B+'s and some 6C's (videos to follow). I have been sending lots of 7A's, 7A+'s and 7B's.  A couple of 7B+'s too. A couple of videos:

- Motivos Personales 7B+

- Liquen Bastardo 7A+ (flash)

I got very close to sending Danian 7C+ in a session too. My last attempt was with a head torch in the dark. I did all of the hard climbing, but couldn't see on the easy top out and fell - very annoyed! It will go next time though!  

Lolo, Mayte, Luke and Javi

Last week we were joined by our Spanish friends Lolo, Mayte and their dog Luke (pronouced Lu-Ki)!  We first met them in Val di Mello and it was great to see them again and catch up. We climbed for four whole days and felt pretty broken afterwards!

We also met another Spanish climber - Javi.  Javi is here for about two weeks and we have had lots of fun bouldering together.

So Many Projects...

So many projects... but I've (Claire) finally sent one of them!  An unnamed 6C in the Peninsula sector (Click here for video) which I'm very pleased to have sent as its my first 6c this trip and a good sign my shoulder is getting stronger and healing well.  Making the most of the good conditions I also managed to send another 6c the next climbing day La Letrina (direct) video to follow as its not been edited yet - it felt a little soft but still a really nice fun climb.   

I seem to be spending most of my time here running around trying new projects - Some things that are way too hard for me, some that will go next time I go back to them and some that should go with a little work.  Hopefully I'll send some more soon rather than making my project list even longer - at the rate I'm going we'll need another trip next year to finish off my project list :).  

Now I'm off to enjoy the remainder of my rest day and looking forward to the arrival and climbing with of our friends Lolo and Mayte tomorrow.  

Much love all xxx 

Cold but beautiful...

Albarracin continues to be cold, but it has generally been beautiful and sunny. Takes a while to warm into climbing, but the friction on the rock is awesome.

Fuerte a Muerte…!

Or in English… Strong until Death!  We’ve now been in Albarracin for a week and we’re both looking for longer term projects to try and send during our time here.  I’ve been trying various 7C’s, 7C+’s and even the odd 8A to find suitable candidates. 

I’m particularly psyched by the line Fuerte a Muerte.  The problem is situated on a stunning boulder in the Arrastradero sector of Albarracin.  The boulder is a 30-40 degree overhanging face, however, it is not smooth, instead it is punctuated by many sculptural curving ledges and edges.  Normally, these would provide many holds and facilitate easy climbing, but on this boulder the ledges are usually sloping and not always orientated in a useful way!  Last year I climbed two other lines (Ineschakra and Manuchakra) on the boulder, but didn’t entertain the thought of trying Fuerte a Muerte.   Fuerte a Muerte is graded 8A (albeit a soft one) and is considerably harder than any boulder problem I’ve climbed previously.  However, it is a stunning line and looks like it will climb really well.  The problem starts to the right of Manuchakra, climbs into the start of Manuchakra and traverses left to finish up Ineschakra.  The problem is pure power endurance, with no easy moves and a very hard cruz sequence about two thirds of the way through.

My first goal was to see if I can even get close to doing the moves.  The crux move is known for being a particularly brutal shoulder move – those who climb with me will know I like brutal shoulder moves!  I managed to do most of the moves in my first session, but (surprise, surprise) was struggling to do the brutal crux moves.  The crux involves reaching up for a small right hand crimp and then moving rightwards into a left hand gaston.  The problem is holding the rotation of the body and usually involves a dynamic throw into the left shoulder gaston.  I was just about to give up on the crux when I thought I’d try to deploy more technique, as I was struggling with the usual brute strength method which I’d seen many others use.  I tweaked the position of my hips and managed to balance my body so that I could reach the right hand crimp statically and in control.  A further movement of the hips (and pulling quite hard) allowed me to reach comfortably into the left hand gaston.  Fantastic, I’d done the crux moves on Fuerte a Muerte!  I rested for a few minutes and repeated the crux moves again (to check it wasn’t a fluke!).  I’d managed to do all the moves in the first session, which is certainly a big step towards sending the problem! 

The problem is by no means done and is it still going to take a mammoth effort to link all the moves.  I hope to be able to climb it in two halves during the next session…

Albarracin

We left the cold weather of Targasonne and headed south to Albarracin in Northern Spain.  Being Spain, the weather would be warm and sunny... Ah, it appears to be even more bitter here!  The temps are warmer, but the wind is evil!  Luckily, the wind is abating and the forecast for the weekend looks cool and sunny - perfect sending weather!  

We've been here for one week and are both getting used to the steep roofs and super rounded top outs!  We're both spending time trying to find suitable projects for our time here. I'm (Jason) looking at 7C's, 7C+'s and even the odd 8A.  My project list is mounting and currently includes La Fuente 7C, Dizdira 7C, Pinturas Buldestres 7C+ and Fuerte a Muerte 7C+/8A.  I had a good first session on Fuerte a Muerte yesterday (see separate entry).

Claire has some 6C, 7A and 7A+ projects.  One of which is the awesome A Ciegas 7A+.

Here are a few videos: 

El Plus del Autobus 7B, 

A Ciegas 7A+, 

El Pan Canario 7A

Climbing in Targasonne

Another post from Claire...

The climbing in Targasonne is awesome with a massive variety in the grade and style of problems.  

My shoulder injury finally seems to be on the mend - with much physio, rehab and exercises - so I've been able to push my climbing a little in Targasonne for the first time this trip.  Even climbing some harder problems (well hard for me!).

We even managed to get some videos!  Here's one of the hardest climb for me so far this trip Androgames 6b+ (which even Jason couldn't manage to climb - so must have been really tough =0)  and another here Lumière et mélancolie 6B - it doesn't quite show up in the video, a pretty vertical crimpy crack – climbed much nicer than it sounds. Oh and here’s another cool 6a Le baron du milieu – quite a funky move and nice mantle to finish. 

  

I’ve really enjoyed the climbing in Targasonne and looking forward to finishing off some projects (hopefully) after a well-deserved rest weekend near Toulouse at the Twitcheties - Thanks again for letting us stay again.

 

A nice healthy climbing breakfast!

  

Targasonne

Targasonne is a little known village is the Eastern, French Pyrenees. The location has become more popular in the last few decades as climbers (especially boulderers) have come from around the world to sample the boulders on offer... The granite boulders are scattered all over and offer a variety of problems in a large range of styles. The rock has great friction, but is very aggressive on the skin.

We both had a great time pitting our technique, skills, strength, skin and sometimes bravery against the problems.

After a few days getting 'tuned-in' to the style, we had a great time sending many fantastic lines.  I'm (Jase) starting to feel stronger and have started to send some harder 7th grade problems (Click for videos).  I was particularly pleased to flash the classic L'Aquarium Envole 7A+ .  I also sent Traite de Demonologie 7B and Eternal Flame 7B+.  I was very happy to send my first 7C of the trip - L'Oeuil du Voisin - a great compression problem up an egg-shaped rock.

I still have one project... Nazgul 7C.  Its an great and slightly intimidating problem with a tough moves right at the top, above a not great landing.  The problems opens with a big lock off using a poor crimp.  On reaching the sloping lip there are some awkward moves before committing to a very sloping and awkward mantle.  I have to put my right foot at about head height so an unplanned slip makes landing unpredictable - especially since the landing is on a bulging rock.  I am consistently getting to the mantle and just need to levitate up over the horribly sloping shelf!  Will try again soon...

Jon and Helen...

After Val di Mello we drove West to visit Jon and Helen. They have left England for a year and are 'working' remotely from a great apartment in a tiny village nestled in the Alps. They are close to all essential local amenities... skiing, cycling, climbing and all other essentials for an active, adrenaline fueled lifestyle.

We had a pretty relaxed time and really enjoyed catching up with Jon and Helen. We went on a few walks and even donned our harnesses one day and climbed a few routes at their local crag.

Shenanigans on Tarzan...!

Il Sogno di Tarzan is a classic boulder problem in Val Masino. An amazing diagonal crack line with the crux in the first half. Although the top section is easy, it is still intimidating when topping out at 20ft. I'd tried the problem previously, but hadn't made the crux throw move. We were planning to leave the valley, but I really wanted one last go! It had just snowed loads and was very unlikely to be in condition.  To my surprise the bottom (hard section) was dry and the friction was great.  The only problem was that the upper (relatively easy) section looked a bit damp in places...

{Working the crux move before the snow came}

I really wanted to send the problem, so I decided to give it a go anyway...  I cruised the bottom section, finding the slopers easy to hold in the cold conditions. The upper section was wetter than it looked and my hands were soon soaked.  There aren't really any great foot holds and the rock was slimy and wet too.  Once in the upper section I realised the conditions were shocking.  There was an internal dialogue between the stubborn part of me who really wanted to send the problem and the rational part of me who was quite scared and thought I should bail.  The stubborn part won and I pushed on getting more committed and wondering if this was going to be a foolish decision.  I didn't look down once and the video provides amusing viewing... Il Sogno Di Tarzan 7B

Thank you Vistair

On leaving my job at Vistair before we came away my very generous work colleagues gave me loads of chocolate (which didn’t last long), some cash and Chad (The Cheater  - who unfortunately has lost his shorts as they were ‘freaking’ Jase out… =)

I just wanted to say thank you all at Vistair for your contribution – we spent our time in Val Di Mello in the Sasso Remano Camping – which was much more expensive than our normal accommodation budget.  So your contribution allowed us to stay here in this beautiful area for much longer than we would have and enjoy the awesome climbing.  

So thank you and miss you guys

Claire x      

A Post from Claire!

Hi yep I’m still alive… As you can probably tell from the last pics post of me looking like a drowned rat (thanks Jase).

So my shoulder is holding up ok – I’ve been doing some climbing but a lot less than Jase and doing my shoulder rehab exercises and a little running to keep me entertained.  The climbing in Mello is stunning but has a tendency to be quite powerful so I’ve been resting more than climbing to give my shoulder a chance to recover. 

I have done some really nice lines and even managing to flash a 6B arête (before Jase had done it which was a surprise!).  Unfortunately there are no photos as no one was really expecting me to get to the top on my first try.  I also made some really good progress on Ultimi Raggi 6C+ - maybe that will go next time.

Well that’s all for now I will keep you dated with progress (and try to update a little more!). X 

Then came the snow...

Autumn was pretty short lived and was soon replaced by winter. The temperatures plummeted and the we received over 30cm of snow! The landscape was transformed into a beautiful, white winter wonderland.  This did make it a little more awkward to climb. However, we were not to be beaten... We armed ourselves with a broom and a shiny new toilet brush. The toilet brush turned out to be the ideal tool for removing snow from the top of boulders. We set off in the morning and found some suitable sun-soaked boulders from which to remove the snow. This took a while, but certainly sped up the drying process.  Just hours later some problems were ready for climbing. I made a quick ascent of a classic prow problem - Andrea Si e Perso 7B (click for video). And Claire had a great session working Ultimi Raggi 6C+.

Rainy rest day....

We've just spent a rainy rest day wandering around in the beautiful and moody mountains. The rain, the mist and the waterfalls were in full flow. The autumnal trees were spectacular and provided a stunning technicolor coat for the mountain sides. Photos (especially in the rain and mist) just can't do justice to the beauty...

Hard won 6's!

Recently done some excellent 6th grade climbs in the Mello. Both of which are some of the best problems I've done on the trip. Some great moves and pretty challenging at the grade! This is Il Vento (stand) 6C - powerful moves on small holds with tiny feet (a high boulder too!).

The other was Il Francese 6C+ - powerful climbing on pretty small holds with great moves.

I Tre Strapiombi Dei Veronesi

A quick video of a boulder problem with a huge press move... I Tre Stapiombi Dei Veronesi (sit) 7A+