Friday, November 2, 2012

Shenanigans on Tarzan...!

Il Sogno di Tarzan is a classic boulder problem in Val Masino. An amazing diagonal crack line with the crux in the first half. Although the top section is easy, it is still intimidating when topping out at 20ft. I'd tried the problem previously, but hadn't made the crux throw move. We were planning to leave the valley, but I really wanted one last go! It had just snowed loads and was very unlikely to be in condition.  To my surprise the bottom (hard section) was dry and the friction was great.  The only problem was that the upper (relatively easy) section looked a bit damp in places...

{Working the crux move before the snow came}

I really wanted to send the problem, so I decided to give it a go anyway...  I cruised the bottom section, finding the slopers easy to hold in the cold conditions. The upper section was wetter than it looked and my hands were soon soaked.  There aren't really any great foot holds and the rock was slimy and wet too.  Once in the upper section I realised the conditions were shocking.  There was an internal dialogue between the stubborn part of me who really wanted to send the problem and the rational part of me who was quite scared and thought I should bail.  The stubborn part won and I pushed on getting more committed and wondering if this was going to be a foolish decision.  I didn't look down once and the video provides amusing viewing... Il Sogno Di Tarzan 7B

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