Thursday, November 15, 2012

Targasonne


Targasonne is a little known village is the Eastern, French Pyrenees. The location has become more popular in the last few decades as climbers (especially boulderers) have come from around the world to sample the boulders on offer... The granite boulders are scattered all over and offer a variety of problems in a large range of styles. The rock has great friction, but is very aggressive on the skin.

We both had a great time pitting our technique, skills, strength, skin and sometimes bravery against the problems.

After a few days getting 'tuned-in' to the style, we had a great time sending many fantastic lines.  I'm (Jase) starting to feel stronger and have started to send some harder 7th grade problems (Click for videos).  I was particularly pleased to flash the classic L'Aquarium Envole 7A+ .  I also sent Traite de Demonologie 7B and Eternal Flame 7B+.  I was very happy to send my first 7C of the trip - L'Oeuil du Voisin - a great compression problem up an egg-shaped rock.

I still have one project... Nazgul 7C.  Its an great and slightly intimidating problem with a tough moves right at the top, above a not great landing.  The problems opens with a big lock off using a poor crimp.  On reaching the sloping lip there are some awkward moves before committing to a very sloping and awkward mantle.  I have to put my right foot at about head height so an unplanned slip makes landing unpredictable - especially since the landing is on a bulging rock.  I am consistently getting to the mantle and just need to levitate up over the horribly sloping shelf!  Will try again soon...

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