Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Is Jason a Gay Porn Star?

After many hours of driving (with the help of a 90 year old woman and a teenage boy) we arrived in Alepochori. This tiny village is stunningly situated high in the mountains with some of the most beautiful scenery we’ve seen in Greece so far and even more amazing climbing.

The ‘warm up’ crags for the area are east facing so to make the most of the climbing we got up early (early for us at least 8:15) and headed off. The 1km track to the crag appeared to be concreted and in good condition, well at least the first 100m was! The track got progressively steeper and rougher as we ascended, but was no match for the van as we cruised up with ease.

The only guide for the area was, in typical Greek Style, rather vague, stating that this crag comprised 10 or so routes between the grades F5c to F6b. The climbing was on excellent quality, although rather sharp, rock. The last two routes of the afternoon went straight up an impressive looking wall. Jason made the crux moves, whilst clinging on with his finger nails, then exclaimed “If that’s 6b than I’m a gay porn star!.”. I also climbed the route and am fairly certain that he’s not.

On Christmas eve we decided to go and play on the Big Boy’s (and girl’s) wall, a very steep wall of tufas where all the climbs are hard – at least for us they as. As we set out for the days climbing the crag was still in the shade and felt warm at 0 degrees C.
After we ‘warmed up’ on a 6c in poor style (luckily no on else was there to see), Jason chose a nice 7a+ as his next route. The route was steep and technical and looked do-able but no gift at the grade. Jason rejected my suggestion of using the clipstick [an extendable pole to attach quickdraws too out of reach bolts on the route] to put the rope up to the 3rd bolt, deciding to go for the onsight and just put the quickdraws in up to the 3rd bolt. The problem with the clip stick is that its excellent for putting gear up, but useless for getting it back if you can’t climb up to retrieve it yourself! Unfortunately the crux of the route was between the 2nd and the 3rd bolts, and the gear was hanging tantalisingly out of reach. The crux move involved a very long move, on small holds, poor feet and 30 degree overhanging rock! After a few failed attempts, some swinging about and pulling on draws Jase managed to get the rope up.

No comments: