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The ‘warm up’ crags for the area are east facing so to make the most of the climbing we got up early (early for us at least 8:15) and headed off. The 1km track to the crag appeared to be concreted and in good condition, well at least the first 100m was! The track got progressively steeper and rougher as we ascended, but was no match for the van as we cruised up with ease.
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After we ‘warmed up’ on a 6c in poor style (luckily no on else was there to see), Jason chose a nice 7a+ as his next route. The route was steep and technical and looked do-able but no gift at the grade. Jason rejected my suggestion of using the clipstick [an extendable pole to attach quickdraws too out of reach bolts on the route] to put the rope up to the 3rd bolt, deciding to go for the onsight and just put the quickdraws in up to the 3rd bolt. The problem with the clip stick is that its excellent for putting gear up, but useless for getting it back if you can’t climb up to retrieve it yourself! Unfortunately the crux of the route was between the 2nd and the 3rd bolts, and the gear was hanging tantalisingly out of reach. The crux move involved a very long move, on small holds, poor feet and 30 degree overhanging rock! After a few failed attempts, some swinging about and pulling on draws Jase managed to get the rope up.
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