Finally... an 8A!

Shouldery moves on Foxy Lady

I got very frustrated with my climbing on our first stint in Magic Wood (back in July).  Nothing seemed to be going well - I struggled with a lack of body tension, low endurance and I felt very under-powered.  OK, I had broken my toe a few months before, but it was still very frustrating to be struggling in a notoriously soft climbing area.  I had many heart breaking falls from countless problems.  A two week 'holiday' with my parents in Val di Mello provided a ideal break from climbing, and help to take stock of things.

Finishing Fight Club - at last!

On our return to Magic Wood I intended to tie up some loose ends. We met more great people and I spent many hours on the rock. Problems started to fall and at last my Tiger had returned. It had become a big mental battle to get to the end of a boulder problem. The moves were often OK, but I really struggled with focus. I met some great guys from Poland and Austria who had a really fun and relaxed approach to Climbing. This helped to put things in perspective and I had some fantastic, long and most importantly FUN days on the rock. Sending things became very unimportant and of course I then started to send things! Many 7C's fell (Magic Wood video coming soon) and I even started to get close on an 8A called Super Super Nova.  All the moves were there, it was just a battle against endurance and friction!  I got close many times and fell repeatedly at the end.  After many falls I got very psyched out by this problem and needed a break.

So close on Super Super Nova

I turned my focus to crimps and went to try the classic Foxy Lady. Foxy Lady is a notoriously shouldery and crimpy face climb.  It suited my style and I worked out the moves relatively quickly.  The problem was linking four tough moves whilst keeping enough finger strength and body tension throughout. I kept falling on the third (crux) move and decided to rest and give it another go the next day.  We returned the following evening and I struggled to warm into the problem. My shoulders and fingers felt cold and a lack of body tension seem to haunt me again. Unperturbed I persevered and started to warm into it.  On the fourth go I stuck the crux move and knew this was my chance...  I went into 'the zone'... I stayed completely focused on the moves and pulled as hard as I possibly could.  Forty seconds later I topped out my first 8A.

I'ts not the toughest 8A, in fact, its definitely a bit soft - however, it's great to make a start on the 8A ladder!