5 cake points in one day!

I’ve just had a record cake point day! Saturday was our hottest day so far (at 31C) so we opted for Raco de Finestra in Margalef. It’s a North facing crag, but still felt extremely sweaty. I began the day with a F6b+ warm up (didn’t need much warming up though!), then headed over to an amazing looking F7b+ on multiple tufas. I climbed it bolt to bolt first and placed all the quick draws. After a 30 minute rest I went for the redpoint. It went really well and I soon clipped the chains with lots of energy in reserve. Since I was on roll I decided to try a F7c also. I tried it bolt to bolt and soon got brought back down to earth! The route comprised a long crux section from the 2^nd to the 6^th bolt. I struggled with virtually every move and really dogged my way up it! I eventually found ways to do the moves, but didn’t feel very close at all! However, I decided to leave the draws in an look at it again later…

After some rest I decided to have a go at redpointing the route. I wasn’t convinced I’d get far, but gave it a shot. I struggled and fought through the series of powerful moves, and somehow reached the last two moves of the crux sequence. I was very surprised to be there, but had nothing left. I made a long reach up and twisted my hand backwards into a Gaston undercut. I now had to summon some body tension, reach a poor side pull and move my feet. I screamed at the top of my voice, didn’t find any body tension and came flying off. I was annoyed I’d got so close, but equally surprised I’d got anywhere near that far. It was late in the day and I was very tired, but decided to leave the draws in and have one last go…

My back and shoulders were aching horribly and another go seemed futile. I decided to give it a go anyway and embarked on my last attempt. The whole crux sequence went badly; I was so tired and every move felt right on my limit. I struggled on, my body positions were all wrong and my footwork severely lacking – mostly due to my very tired body. Somehow I managed to reach the last two moves of the crux again! I had nothing left, but somehow summoned enough body tension to grind my toe onto the shiny foothold. After a massive fight I’d reached the jug. I was wasted, but managed to struggle up the last half of the climb to the chains! F7b+ and F7c in one day!

A F7a+ at Raco de Finestra.