Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Marihauna red point attempts

I've now had 3 attempts at red pointing Marihauna (this in addition to the original bolt to bolt go). Good progress so far, although not there yet! My first redpoint attempt ended reasonably early with a harsh realisation that the moves were going to be very hard to link! No one move was right at my limit, however, the crux was tough to do even after resting. The crux would prove particularly tough after climbing 8 long and powerful moves prior to it. Even after the crux there is a series of tough moves (around a 7a+ route), which are gonna be especially difficult when pumped. However, I'm confident that I can get to the top if I can get through the crux sequence. On the second attempt I reached the crux moves, started the first move and fell off! The third go went better and I got over halfway through the crux and fell off just two moves shy of finishing the hardest section.

Trying the route has made me realise that it isn't going to be a pushover! However, I am glad of this as it wouldn't feel like an 8a if I sent it in a few tries. It does feel noticeably harder than the two 7c+'s I've done, its near my limit of power endurance, but I'm confident it will go with the next 4 tries...

The route is very hard to photograph or video as it sets off from a narrow, exposed ledge, however I've attached one photo. It takes the line up the black streak on the wall to the left of the tree - the quick draws are just visible.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Go Jase! Sounds like you are pretty close, will be an awesome tick when you get it.