After a quick first session I managed to work out most of the moves apart from the last crux moves and top out – all I had to do now was wait for a break in the weather so I could get on it and work the final moves and hopefully have enough energy to finish it. Unfortunately the problem is slow drying and after many rainy days I began to think it would never be dry…
Finally there was a break in the weather and I headed up to
work the problem one evening. After
warming up Le Jeu du Toit was still a little damp, the crucial slopers were
still damp but thought seen as I was there I’d give it a go anyhow. With some drying and power spotting I successfully
figured out the remaining moves all that was left to do was send the
problem. Whilst resting something strange
happened - there was suddenly a slight breeze and the holds completely
dried. Now I had no excuses – I knew the
moves and conditions were great I just had to send it.
It went surprisingly easily in my first link attempt! It almost felt like a slight let down to send
it so quickly as I was expecting much more of a fight to get to the top – but really
I’m completely chuffed! I celebrated
that evening and drank my 7a champagne (I even let Jase have a glass!).
There's a video on Font Part 1
Hopefully I’ve now broken the mental 7’s barrier and can
manage to squeeze one or two more in before the end of the trip.
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