Friday, March 29, 2013

7a Celebration…

One of my aims for this trip was to climb font 7a – preferably in Fontainebleau.  After much searching and trying various problems, I eventually found one that suited me but not my normal style! Le Jeu du Toit in Roche aux Sabots – Overhang with slopers and no long reaches. 
After a quick first session I managed to work out most of the moves apart from the last crux moves and top out – all I had to do now was wait for a break in the weather so I could get on it and work the final moves and hopefully have enough energy to finish it.  Unfortunately the problem is slow drying and after many rainy days I began to think it would never be dry…

Finally there was a break in the weather and I headed up to work the problem one evening.  After warming up Le Jeu du Toit was still a little damp, the crucial slopers were still damp but thought seen as I was there I’d give it a go anyhow.  With some drying and power spotting I successfully figured out the remaining moves all that was left to do was send the problem.  Whilst resting something strange happened - there was suddenly a slight breeze and the holds completely dried.  Now I had no excuses – I knew the moves and conditions were great I just had to send it. 

It went surprisingly easily in my first link attempt!  It almost felt like a slight let down to send it so quickly as I was expecting much more of a fight to get to the top – but really I’m completely chuffed!  I celebrated that evening and drank my 7a champagne (I even let Jase have a glass!).  

There's a video on Font Part 1 


Hopefully I’ve now broken the mental 7’s barrier and can manage to squeeze one or two more in before the end of the trip. 

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