Wednesday, March 20, 2013

A good day out...

I had a great day out on Saturday and sent two 7C's in the forest.  I think they're both soft, but they are awesome problems and it was great to get both in a day.

I went out in Franchard Isatis and Hautes Plaines with Duma, a friend from Bristol.  Duma was psyched to get on L'Arrache Coeur - a stunning, high roof/wall problem with the crux where it should be... at the end!  Duma disptached it fast and my ascent followed a few goes later.  It was great to send such a classic problem, with great moves and an exciting finale.

L'Arrache Coeur VIDEO

Buoyed with our success we moved on to Deau Faux Plis en Plat Reels an amazing 45 degree overhanging wall.  The boulder is an awesome disc shape and looks like a flying saucer that has crashed into the forest.  There are two distinct sloping ledges, which are big, but quite poor given the angle of the face.  I spent a little while working the moves and eventually devised a good sequence to do the final move.  This move had eluded me on a previous session, so it was good to finally work it out.  I had done all the moves and just had to link it...



Linking the problem proved difficult as I kept falling on the final flick to the lip.  I caught the lip many times, but kept dabbing the low ground behind.  After quite a few goes and some subtle refinement, I managed to stick the last move and keep my heel/toe cam in.

Deux Faux Plis en Plat Reels VIDEO

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