Thursday, May 9, 2013

The End...? Not yet!

It was time to contemplate the end of the trip and coming back to lead more 'normal' lives.  We've been away for 7 months, so maybe it is time to be responsible...  After much deliberation (well, it wasn't a particularly difficult decision!), we decided to extend the trip and spend the summer and early autumn in the Alps.  We will be touring some of the higher altitude bouldering spots of Italy, Switzerland and Austria.

[Stunning web formations]

However, before embarking on phase two we've returned to the UK to catch up with friends and family, MOT Juan and re-rent a property. We are currently in Bristol and enjoying the surreal experience of taking a holiday within a holiday!

[Beautiful scenes of Spring in Fontainebleau]

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Fontainebleau - Part 3 (VIDEO)

We've had a great 3rd month in Fontainebleau - sunny, warm weather, lots of friends and lots of climbing.  Unfortunately, (as detailed below) Claire has injured her wrist, however, it is on the mend and she should be cranking again soon.

I've had a fantastic final fortnight and sent three more 7C's.  I'm particularly pleased because they are all great problems, especially 'Hotline', which has to be my proudest send of the trip so far.  The problems were in different areas of the forest and varied in style.  Consequently, I feel like I've climbed a good range of problems, rather than just playing to my strengths!

Hotline is an amazing and imposing pillar.  The initial compression moves require a fairly large arm span and the ability to squeeze hard on the slopey sidepulls.  The crux move is a big reach off a small sidepull crimp.  The next hold is good, but it is still a fairly large and exciting pop to the top.  I worked the moves on the first visit and quickly sent the problem during the second session.




The second was Symbiose  - a great roof problem at 95.2.  It has reachy, but steady moves under the roof and finishes with a challenging and sloping top out.  I spent the first session working the moves and managed to send it on my first link attempt during the second session.

The third and final problem was the Controle A at Buthiers.  Controle A is a typical Buthiers problem - reasonably high, quite intimidating and a great line.  It comprising 4 really good moves to an exciting and slopey top out.  I got to the top left sloper relatively quickly, but it took quite a few goes to get my right foot into the left scoop.  It wasn't particularly cold and the sloper was very challenging to 'stick' to!

All these problems and many others are featured in our third Fontainebleau video.  Unfortunately, Claire's wrist has made it difficult for her to climb in the last few weeks, but I'm pretty sure she'll be making a strong come back in the next video.

FONTAINEBLEAU 2013 - PART 3 VIDEO

Sunday, May 5, 2013

How Much Climbing is too Much...?


This much...?

Bouldering is quite an intense on the body, climbing a boulder problem often involves climbing 2 or 3 very hard moves which can put lots of strain on the body.  One of our biggest challenges on this trip has been injury management - making sure that existing injuries improve and trying to avoid new injuries! 

We were very lucky to have some brilliant advice from our physio friend Nina who gave us great advice on our injury management and injury prevention.  This advice has been invaluable and maintained us for 7 months keeping us climbing most of the time. 

Even with this help though with the arrival of the the good weather, good climbing conditions and good friends we've done loads of climbing, maybe too much (if such a thing is even possible).  After a hard (for me) session on a boulder problem I woke the next day with much pain in my wrists, unable to pick up a water bottle without it hurting quite a lot.  One was not amused =).

So I've been giving my body a well overdue rest in the hope that my wrists recover as quick a possible.  I've been resting now for nearly two weeks now and booked and appointment to see a physio so fingers crossed I'll be back climbing soon! 

Meanwhile Jase has been running around Font sending some awesome problems - I've been very jealous and pleased for him =).   I'll let him give you the details...