Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Fontainebleau - Part 3 (VIDEO)

We've had a great 3rd month in Fontainebleau - sunny, warm weather, lots of friends and lots of climbing.  Unfortunately, (as detailed below) Claire has injured her wrist, however, it is on the mend and she should be cranking again soon.

I've had a fantastic final fortnight and sent three more 7C's.  I'm particularly pleased because they are all great problems, especially 'Hotline', which has to be my proudest send of the trip so far.  The problems were in different areas of the forest and varied in style.  Consequently, I feel like I've climbed a good range of problems, rather than just playing to my strengths!

Hotline is an amazing and imposing pillar.  The initial compression moves require a fairly large arm span and the ability to squeeze hard on the slopey sidepulls.  The crux move is a big reach off a small sidepull crimp.  The next hold is good, but it is still a fairly large and exciting pop to the top.  I worked the moves on the first visit and quickly sent the problem during the second session.




The second was Symbiose  - a great roof problem at 95.2.  It has reachy, but steady moves under the roof and finishes with a challenging and sloping top out.  I spent the first session working the moves and managed to send it on my first link attempt during the second session.

The third and final problem was the Controle A at Buthiers.  Controle A is a typical Buthiers problem - reasonably high, quite intimidating and a great line.  It comprising 4 really good moves to an exciting and slopey top out.  I got to the top left sloper relatively quickly, but it took quite a few goes to get my right foot into the left scoop.  It wasn't particularly cold and the sloper was very challenging to 'stick' to!

All these problems and many others are featured in our third Fontainebleau video.  Unfortunately, Claire's wrist has made it difficult for her to climb in the last few weeks, but I'm pretty sure she'll be making a strong come back in the next video.

FONTAINEBLEAU 2013 - PART 3 VIDEO

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