Bang goes Juan

It�s not often that one pulls up on the hard shoulder of the motorway and the crankshaft pulley � formally part of the engine � rolls up alongside in the slow lane�.

Our first thought was �great we may be able to retrieve our engine�s recently lost friend!� Seconds later the large HGV drove over the crankshaft pulley and made it significantly less useful. With hazard lights blinking we donned our lovely high vis jackets, and started to take stock of the situation�.

Whilst travelling at 60mph at a reasonable distance behind a lorry a piece of debris suddenly came into view. It was probably metal and about one and half feet long, there was no time to avoid it and we went straight over it. BANG! Soon after, the engine stopped and we coasted to halt. Our obedient crank shaft pulley and various belts (which had lost the fight with the debris) bounded along behind and stopped next to us. After the Lorry had smashed them to pieces, I waited for a gap in the traffic and retrieved the potentially dangerous debris. This included the sheared off bolt, which used to hold our crank shaft pulley in the correct place.

Claire and I soon realised that this was gonna be very expensive! The initial bang hinted as much, and further inspection confirmed that the prognosis was unlikely to be good. The crankshaft pulley drives various belts, including the cam belt. We knew that losing cam belt and engine timing was bad and potentially a new engine! We were both in shock and rapidly realising that our road trip could be ending early, with our beloved Juan (the van) being written off. However, we had a more pressing issue of what to do in the immediate future.

We called a friend (thanks Trish) who got on the web and soon found a local company to tow the van. An hour or so later we arrived at the VW garage in Segorbe (North of Valencia). No one spoke any English, so things were difficult to say the least. The guy lift the bonnet, shone his torch at the Sorry looking engine and said �Muy, Muy Malo� � which we clearly understood as �very, very bad!�. Normally, this is a bad situation if it happens to your car in the UK. However, this had happened in Spain to a vehicle which is essentially our home. It�s where we sleep, cook and it houses our bikes, clothes, climbing gear and loads of belongings � a logistical nightmare!

We called the insurance company and started to ride the emotional and frustrating rollercoaster of sorting this mess out. We spent the next two days parked outside the VW garage next to a noisy main road. Not a great van spot, but better than leaving our valuable bikes and shelling out for a hotel. We had two bad nights sleep and spent the days getting thoroughly bored in the uninteresting town of Segorbe. We spent a lot of time chasing the insurance company and worrying about how to resolve this mess.

The insurance company are trying to worm out of the claim; they are claiming �wear and tear�, even though it was an accidental impact that caused the damage. We are now just waiting to see what happens.

Fortunately, our friends Lucy and Simon are absolute stars and have put us up in their lovely motor home for a few days while we await the outcome with the insurance company. We have moved on to Albaracin (two hours from Segorbe) where we are enjoying some bouldering.

It is unlikely that we�ll be able to afford to fix the van now, so we will probably send Juan home on a transporter lorry. We have decided to get a cheap tent, send home surplus stuff and carry on the trip in less luxury. We will be far less mobile, but plan to visit similar places to Simon and Lucy, so can share fuel costs and catch rides. We will mainly focus on the larger spots (Margalef, Siurana and Ceuse) and spend longer at each.

Spring is springing...

Spain is incredibly beautiful at this time of year, it's particularly green and the landscape is a chessboard of blossoming fruit trees!

Don’t make him Angry…

As promised here’s the long awaited cake point update.

With my shoulder improving and remaining stable whilst increasing the grade and amount of climbing I decided that it was time to re-grade my cake points to keep things fair. This means that I now have to red-point or onsight 6b+ or above to get cake points.

With us both managing to successfully send our projects (and sending a few other routes) the competition is close but I am still in the lead (just) with Jase on 10 and me on 12.

Oops I think I made him angry!

Mula and hot baths....

Just been to a cool little crag near Mula (near Murcia). Not that well known and mostly frequented by the local Spanish climbers. The rock is really featured and amazing to climb on. It is mostly very steep on unbelievably large holds - apart from the cruxes! I did one 6c+ which followed 45 degree overhanging rock for 15+ metres! It had incredibly large holds, but still proved very pumpy, with the crux roof right at the end!

My finger is improving, but still not perfect, so Mula was the ideal place to 'train my weaknesses'! Decided to try a super steep 7b! The onsight didn't go that well - I climbed like a fool and got very tired. However, I so nearly got it on my first redpoint attempt; falling from the last move - a long throw for a good hold. Unfortunatley, this move thwarted me on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th redpoint attempts! This was a record number of tries for me on a 7b, and this move just wasn't happening! I was, however, very pleased that my fitness was allowing me to have so many goes on such a steep route. On my last and 6th redpoint attempt I tried another method (copied from a spanich guy) - this was more static, but on much smaller holds. Unfortunately this didn't work, I was too tired... However, I was super determined to give it everything, so reversed 3 moves, chalked and made a final wild throw for the hold (using my original method). Somehow (in my utterly wasted state) I made the move! A lot of work for one cake point, but great training!

Mula felt more like the 'authentic' Spanish climbing experience... A crag full of Spanish climbers (not over-run with brits!), who we're very friendly and fun to climb with.

Mula had other hidden treasures... The nearby Banos de Mula had many baths fed by natural hot spring water! The little village of Banos de Mula was full of 'Bathing Houses' which rented out large hot baths by the hour! Yes, that's right, they have a variety of different sized private rooms, with varying sized baths. We opted for the Hidro Massaje bath and enjoyed the healing power of the natural minerals! An authentic Spanish experience.

Vaya tipo el de Oti

Whilst Jase has been busy with Simon working hard things on the Wildside Lucy and I have been working a nice 6C+ route in the sun - Vaya tipo el de Oti. A short bouldery route where the crux moves go from small two finger pockets to bad crimps; the final moves of the crux feel tenuous and committing climbing above the bolt.

As my first attempt I decided to go for the flash (trying to climb the route with knowledge of the moves and holds but without having any previous attempts); it didn’t go so well and I fell of reaching the small crimps after the pockets. Figuring the moves out didn’t take too long so I decided to have a good rest and try again. I got to the same place but couldn’t commit to the moves, I felt like I was miles above the last bolt (tho I was actually only a inches above it) and my legs started to shake on the small shiny foot holds (I was shaking so much that the gri-gri Jase was belaying with was bouncing all over the place!).

I had a few day rest and decided to get back on and send it. I tried the top moves on a top rope and they felt impossible – I didn’t think I could make it but decided to go for it on lead anyway. I decided to fully commit and go for it – it almost felt easy when I clipped the chain. My first 6C+ of the trip and 3 cake points in the bag – woop woop.

Stay tuned for the riveting cake-point update...!

El Puto Lastre

If you can read/speak Spanish, sorry for swearing! El Puto Lastre is the name of the route I've been working in the Wild Side with Simon. Its a great 7c+ which takes a technical and steep line on the right hand end of the Wild Side. The climb kicks off with a Font 7a boulder problem around the third bolt, followed by a slight respite (but no rests), then into a Font 6c/+ boulder problem. After passing the second boulder problem its steep/pumpy 7a climbing to the top.

On my first 'bolt to bolt' attempt it took me a while to solve the two problems and involved lots of flailing and falls. I eventually found some good sequences and was happy I could do all the moves - it was just a matter of finding the power endurance to piece it all together! My skin was suffering from flailing about on the route, so I decided to return fresh on another day.

I returned a few days later with Simon and we attempted the route together. We both got to the second boulder problem, but fell off trying to reach a sloping edge from a poor pinch hold. We returned again for day three and both fell repeatedly from the same move! We were both getting quite frustrated - so close to the end of the crux, yet so far! We could climb the moves after a rest, but didn't have the endurance or core strength to complete the moves after the previous 17 moves! We both reworked the moves and tried to find a solution that would work when we are really tired.

On day four something strange happened... I'd pre-planned exactly how to climb every crux move and knew exactly what to do at the 'red-point crux' which had thwarted my progress - I just had to do it...! I climbed through the first boulder problem and continued up to the second problem on withering arms. I reached the second boulder problem (tried to suppress my memories of all the recent falls!) and found myself climbing it completely wrong... I held the pinch completely wrong, I missed out a hold and moved my feet differently - what was I doing? Normally I'm very good at carefully following the exact pre-planned sequence! However, amazingly, I'd done it! I was holding the good hold! I'd done the second boulder problem! I'd ignored the sequence which I'd practiced for days and somehow managed it easily with the 'climbing by the seat of my pants' approach. Elation soon faded, and I realised I was excessively pumped and still had to contend with the 7a climbing to the chains! I slowly progressed to the top, getting evermore pumped and ever closer to letting go. I fought hard and eventually made it to the chains.

That's 7c+ done (and four well earned cake points!), just the small matter of an 8a!

Sella

Sorry for the drought in blog updates! The weather has been treating us well, so we haven't had many days to catch up on news updates.

We have been in Sella (Costa Blanca) for just over a week and met a lovely couple from Bristol (Simon and Lucy). It has been great spending time with them, we've had lots of fun and really enjoyed climbing projects with them. Simon and I have been working a route in the Wild Side and Claire and Lucy and been sending routes in the sun (see other updates)!

Sella is a great spot in the mountains about 30 mins inland from Benidorm (not so lovely). There is a good range of routes from technical slabs through to amazing, pumpy and steep tufa routes. I've not been that impressed with Sella on previous trips - mainly due to bad experiences on the very well travelled, and hideously polished, 6a, 6a+ and 6b routes. However, on this visit we have discovered lots of great routes in the upper 6's and 7's.