El Puto Lastre

If you can read/speak Spanish, sorry for swearing! El Puto Lastre is the name of the route I've been working in the Wild Side with Simon. Its a great 7c+ which takes a technical and steep line on the right hand end of the Wild Side. The climb kicks off with a Font 7a boulder problem around the third bolt, followed by a slight respite (but no rests), then into a Font 6c/+ boulder problem. After passing the second boulder problem its steep/pumpy 7a climbing to the top.

On my first 'bolt to bolt' attempt it took me a while to solve the two problems and involved lots of flailing and falls. I eventually found some good sequences and was happy I could do all the moves - it was just a matter of finding the power endurance to piece it all together! My skin was suffering from flailing about on the route, so I decided to return fresh on another day.

I returned a few days later with Simon and we attempted the route together. We both got to the second boulder problem, but fell off trying to reach a sloping edge from a poor pinch hold. We returned again for day three and both fell repeatedly from the same move! We were both getting quite frustrated - so close to the end of the crux, yet so far! We could climb the moves after a rest, but didn't have the endurance or core strength to complete the moves after the previous 17 moves! We both reworked the moves and tried to find a solution that would work when we are really tired.

On day four something strange happened... I'd pre-planned exactly how to climb every crux move and knew exactly what to do at the 'red-point crux' which had thwarted my progress - I just had to do it...! I climbed through the first boulder problem and continued up to the second problem on withering arms. I reached the second boulder problem (tried to suppress my memories of all the recent falls!) and found myself climbing it completely wrong... I held the pinch completely wrong, I missed out a hold and moved my feet differently - what was I doing? Normally I'm very good at carefully following the exact pre-planned sequence! However, amazingly, I'd done it! I was holding the good hold! I'd done the second boulder problem! I'd ignored the sequence which I'd practiced for days and somehow managed it easily with the 'climbing by the seat of my pants' approach. Elation soon faded, and I realised I was excessively pumped and still had to contend with the 7a climbing to the chains! I slowly progressed to the top, getting evermore pumped and ever closer to letting go. I fought hard and eventually made it to the chains.

That's 7c+ done (and four well earned cake points!), just the small matter of an 8a!