Vaya tipo el de Oti

Whilst Jase has been busy with Simon working hard things on the Wildside Lucy and I have been working a nice 6C+ route in the sun - Vaya tipo el de Oti. A short bouldery route where the crux moves go from small two finger pockets to bad crimps; the final moves of the crux feel tenuous and committing climbing above the bolt.

As my first attempt I decided to go for the flash (trying to climb the route with knowledge of the moves and holds but without having any previous attempts); it didn’t go so well and I fell of reaching the small crimps after the pockets. Figuring the moves out didn’t take too long so I decided to have a good rest and try again. I got to the same place but couldn’t commit to the moves, I felt like I was miles above the last bolt (tho I was actually only a inches above it) and my legs started to shake on the small shiny foot holds (I was shaking so much that the gri-gri Jase was belaying with was bouncing all over the place!).

I had a few day rest and decided to get back on and send it. I tried the top moves on a top rope and they felt impossible – I didn’t think I could make it but decided to go for it on lead anyway. I decided to fully commit and go for it – it almost felt easy when I clipped the chain. My first 6C+ of the trip and 3 cake points in the bag – woop woop.

Stay tuned for the riveting cake-point update...!