7a – Finally

One of my aims for this trip was to lead a 7a route – this week I finally managed to meet that aim here in Siruana.

I found a 7a that suited all my strengths vertical wall with lots of technical crimpy climbing. I decided it was time to stop being a big wuss and get on and bolt to bolt the route and see how I got on with it. I figured out most of the moves other than the final crux moves on the first bolt to bolt attempt rested a while and then worked the moves on a top rope. I worked out exactly what I had to do now all I had to do was send it.

As it was my 3^rd day on climbing (I never normally do more than 2) and the end of the day I was feel very tired so had little expectations of actually reaching the top. However I found my self on the last move of the crux think hmm this might actually go! At full stretch I reached the final crimp on the crux and got the jug of glory, the hard climbing was over. Clipping the chain was most satisfying.

7a in a day – result =)

Cake point update

Since arriving back in Siruana (after bouldering) my climbing has been improving quite quickly. With the additional strength from bouldering, some mental training to improve my fear of falling and my shoulder feeling stable I’m finally getting comfortable leading and trying harder routes. My previous cake point level was starting to feel too easy and with seven 6b onsites in a row I felt it was time to up the level again.

I now have to onsite 6b+ for one cake point or redpoint 6c for one cake point (or onsite 6c for two cake points).

Juan nearly has a new heart...

Juan is still in van hospital and awaiting new parts. The loss in his crankshaft pulley resulted in 5 bent valves and a cracked cylinder head! The mechanic has ordered a new cylinder head from the UK, and various parts and belts from Spain. We are still waiting for the head, so hopefully the van will be fixed soon.

Steep juggy fun! - Video added

We both enjoyed playing on some super steep boulder problems in Albarracin. I was quite pleased to get a F7a dyno (a jump between holds). I was particularly pleased because I’m not very good at dynos and this was over 1.5m on steeply overhanging rock. It was quite scary too as failure to catch the hold resulted in me flying backwards through the air and splatting onto the pads! The first video shows a failed attempt and the second video is successful.

Claire did really well and sent this F6a roof problem - Video.

This video is of a F7a roof, which was particularly fun.

This vid (coming soon) is of a scary F7a with a slopey top out. It was quite scary because the top was very insecure and the landing was on very sloping rock. It felt OK to jump off in control, but I didn’t fancy falling out of control (which fortunately didn’t happen).

Margalef con agua…

We’re back in Margalef for a few days. We’ve done some more great climbing and I’ve managed to get another 7c redpoint – which earns me another 3 cake points. Claire is doing really well and running away with the competition..! (cake point update coming soon).

Spain has recently had unusually high rainfall and the reservoir at Margalef is full and spilling spectacularly over the dam. It’s quite an amazing sight and certainly very noisy, but strangely relaxing!

{Waterfall over Dam by full moon}

Siurana and changes to cake points…

We stayed at the Siurana campsite for a few days and caught up with some laundry and had some much needed good showers. Did a really good 7a+… Managed to flash it, but it was a real fight! Tried a potential 8a project, but the tiny, sharp crimps and hot sun were a bad combination. It has potential, but might need a re-visit on a cooler day!

Claire is climbing really well and has been consistently onsighting 6b’s and one 6b+. We’ve changed the cake points slightly and added the opportunity for both of us to gain one extra point if we onsight/flash one grade under our minimum grade. For example, before I only got points for onsighting/flashing or redpointing 7b. I now get one point for a 7a+ onsight/flash, but nothing for a redpoint. We made the change as we still felt a 7a+ onsight/flash (for me) or 6b onsight/flash (for Claire) deserved some cake.

Crap hair

Those who have climbed regularly (especially in Spain), will be aware of the amazing array of climber’s haircuts. These hairstyles range from mullets, ‘afros’ and ‘Mohicans’ to dreads, rat’s tails and various other creative styles. There also seems to be a vague correlation between the ‘crapness’ of the hair and the ability of the climber… Crap hair generally means better climber!

To test this theory I decided to try the crap hair theory! Simon kindly assisted and created a true masterpiece! It is a bad mullet combined with a ‘tin-tin-esque’ quiff, and certainly fits the crap hair criteria!

So, does it work? Well, hard to say for definite, but my climbing does seems to be improving. I’ve been climbing more 7a+’s and 7b’s, and had a go on an 8a and nearly got a 7c on the second session (climbed through the crux and fell off a wet hold at the top). I’d like to think the hair helps, but if I’m honest it is probably just a combination of my improving finger injury and extra strength from two weeks bouldering in Albarracin!

Bouldering cake points

We decided to play the cake point game in Albarracin, also. Claire got one cake point for F5+ problems, two for F6a and so on (plus an extra point for a flash). I got one point for F6c+, two for F7a and so on…

Claire on a super steep f6a:Jason on a F7a roof:

Albarracin

We’ve just spent 12 days bouldering in Albarracin. Albarracin is a beautiful village nestled in the hills at over 1200m. The bouldering is on sandstone boulders scattered around the surrounding area. The style of bouldering was very different to Fontaninebleau. Although both are sandstone, Albarracin is generally more steep and powerful in style. This was another opportunity for us to train our weaknesses!

Juan goes to hospital...

Our initial plan was to send Juan (the van) back to the UK on a transporter and get him fixed there. However, it was gonna cost over a £1000, so we’ve opted to try and get him fixed in Spain. After some searching we found an English guy who seems to know his stuff. Juan left on another tow truck and headed to a garage in Pedralba, near to Valencia. We saw him off this morning and drove North to the area around LLeida.

We are still travelling with Simon and Lucy (and Tala – the dog) in their luxurious motor home. We’ve just got a tent from Decathlon so we can stay near to Simon and Lucy, but all have our personal space.