We are currently staying in the Arboli area – a pretty area with lots of great climbing. It’s not as popular as Siurana, but does have better easier/medium routes. About a week ago we checked out a crag called ‘El Dard’. We weren’t expecting much, but were very impressed when the main wall came into view! The massive and overhanging wall soared from the ground and was punctuated by soaring crack lines. The crag sports some stunning lines starting at f7b. The route of the crag has to be El Marginao (f7c), which is a massive leaning and overhanging crack splitting the crag in two (spot Claire standing under the route!). The route looked stunning and I really wanted to climb it! Although a big challenge, the route was good because it was long, sustained and steep. In general the holds are big and there isn’t too much crimping involved (good for my injured fingers!). However, those who know me will know that cracks are not my strong point, especially when very overhanging, pumpy and often on open-handed holds. An ideal project to ‘train my weaknesses’ on!I climbed the route initially moving from bolt to bolt and take regular rests to work out the moves. This went pretty well until I got to the final bolt before the chain (top) and realised that the last section was quite run out – about 5+ metres. I tried repeatedly to climb to the chain, but kept getting ejected into space! Wonderful... a 5 metre run-out and the crux right at the end of the route! After many falls I worked out the crux moves and made it to the lower off, unfortunately I was so tired I couldn’t hold on any longer! I couldn’t hold the big holds, I couldn’t hold the chain and I certainly couldn’t clip the chain! There I was… right at the top of a 36m route, with a 5+ metre run-out with nothing left. The inevitable happened… I relaxed, felt the air rush past my body, tried to stop my stomach coming out of my mouth enjoyed the 35-40ft flight downwards (no video - sorry!). I was happy to feel the rope go tight and Claire overcome by the laws of physics got dragged a few metres up the route. With nothing left, I bailed of the route and vowed to return.
We’ve since returned and I’ve had much better attempts on the route. I climbed to the last bolt yesterday and even managed half of the crux sequence – so nearly there! (see video – This is the top 2/3 of the route) It’s going to take some determination, but I think the route will go (I might exclaim a 'bit' after falling off).
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