Fuerte a Muerte…!

Or in English… Strong until Death!  We’ve now been in Albarracin for a week and we’re both looking for longer term projects to try and send during our time here.  I’ve been trying various 7C’s, 7C+’s and even the odd 8A to find suitable candidates. 

I’m particularly psyched by the line Fuerte a Muerte.  The problem is situated on a stunning boulder in the Arrastradero sector of Albarracin.  The boulder is a 30-40 degree overhanging face, however, it is not smooth, instead it is punctuated by many sculptural curving ledges and edges.  Normally, these would provide many holds and facilitate easy climbing, but on this boulder the ledges are usually sloping and not always orientated in a useful way!  Last year I climbed two other lines (Ineschakra and Manuchakra) on the boulder, but didn’t entertain the thought of trying Fuerte a Muerte.   Fuerte a Muerte is graded 8A (albeit a soft one) and is considerably harder than any boulder problem I’ve climbed previously.  However, it is a stunning line and looks like it will climb really well.  The problem starts to the right of Manuchakra, climbs into the start of Manuchakra and traverses left to finish up Ineschakra.  The problem is pure power endurance, with no easy moves and a very hard cruz sequence about two thirds of the way through.

My first goal was to see if I can even get close to doing the moves.  The crux move is known for being a particularly brutal shoulder move – those who climb with me will know I like brutal shoulder moves!  I managed to do most of the moves in my first session, but (surprise, surprise) was struggling to do the brutal crux moves.  The crux involves reaching up for a small right hand crimp and then moving rightwards into a left hand gaston.  The problem is holding the rotation of the body and usually involves a dynamic throw into the left shoulder gaston.  I was just about to give up on the crux when I thought I’d try to deploy more technique, as I was struggling with the usual brute strength method which I’d seen many others use.  I tweaked the position of my hips and managed to balance my body so that I could reach the right hand crimp statically and in control.  A further movement of the hips (and pulling quite hard) allowed me to reach comfortably into the left hand gaston.  Fantastic, I’d done the crux moves on Fuerte a Muerte!  I rested for a few minutes and repeated the crux moves again (to check it wasn’t a fluke!).  I’d managed to do all the moves in the first session, which is certainly a big step towards sending the problem! 

The problem is by no means done and is it still going to take a mammoth effort to link all the moves.  I hope to be able to climb it in two halves during the next session…

Albarracin

We left the cold weather of Targasonne and headed south to Albarracin in Northern Spain.  Being Spain, the weather would be warm and sunny... Ah, it appears to be even more bitter here!  The temps are warmer, but the wind is evil!  Luckily, the wind is abating and the forecast for the weekend looks cool and sunny - perfect sending weather!  

We've been here for one week and are both getting used to the steep roofs and super rounded top outs!  We're both spending time trying to find suitable projects for our time here. I'm (Jason) looking at 7C's, 7C+'s and even the odd 8A.  My project list is mounting and currently includes La Fuente 7C, Dizdira 7C, Pinturas Buldestres 7C+ and Fuerte a Muerte 7C+/8A.  I had a good first session on Fuerte a Muerte yesterday (see separate entry).

Claire has some 6C, 7A and 7A+ projects.  One of which is the awesome A Ciegas 7A+.

Here are a few videos: 

El Plus del Autobus 7B, 

A Ciegas 7A+, 

El Pan Canario 7A

Climbing in Targasonne

Another post from Claire...

The climbing in Targasonne is awesome with a massive variety in the grade and style of problems.  

My shoulder injury finally seems to be on the mend - with much physio, rehab and exercises - so I've been able to push my climbing a little in Targasonne for the first time this trip.  Even climbing some harder problems (well hard for me!).

We even managed to get some videos!  Here's one of the hardest climb for me so far this trip Androgames 6b+ (which even Jason couldn't manage to climb - so must have been really tough =0)  and another here Lumière et mélancolie 6B - it doesn't quite show up in the video, a pretty vertical crimpy crack – climbed much nicer than it sounds. Oh and here’s another cool 6a Le baron du milieu – quite a funky move and nice mantle to finish. 

  

I’ve really enjoyed the climbing in Targasonne and looking forward to finishing off some projects (hopefully) after a well-deserved rest weekend near Toulouse at the Twitcheties - Thanks again for letting us stay again.

 

A nice healthy climbing breakfast!

  

Targasonne

Targasonne is a little known village is the Eastern, French Pyrenees. The location has become more popular in the last few decades as climbers (especially boulderers) have come from around the world to sample the boulders on offer... The granite boulders are scattered all over and offer a variety of problems in a large range of styles. The rock has great friction, but is very aggressive on the skin.

We both had a great time pitting our technique, skills, strength, skin and sometimes bravery against the problems.

After a few days getting 'tuned-in' to the style, we had a great time sending many fantastic lines.  I'm (Jase) starting to feel stronger and have started to send some harder 7th grade problems (Click for videos).  I was particularly pleased to flash the classic L'Aquarium Envole 7A+ .  I also sent Traite de Demonologie 7B and Eternal Flame 7B+.  I was very happy to send my first 7C of the trip - L'Oeuil du Voisin - a great compression problem up an egg-shaped rock.

I still have one project... Nazgul 7C.  Its an great and slightly intimidating problem with a tough moves right at the top, above a not great landing.  The problems opens with a big lock off using a poor crimp.  On reaching the sloping lip there are some awkward moves before committing to a very sloping and awkward mantle.  I have to put my right foot at about head height so an unplanned slip makes landing unpredictable - especially since the landing is on a bulging rock.  I am consistently getting to the mantle and just need to levitate up over the horribly sloping shelf!  Will try again soon...

Jon and Helen...

After Val di Mello we drove West to visit Jon and Helen. They have left England for a year and are 'working' remotely from a great apartment in a tiny village nestled in the Alps. They are close to all essential local amenities... skiing, cycling, climbing and all other essentials for an active, adrenaline fueled lifestyle.

We had a pretty relaxed time and really enjoyed catching up with Jon and Helen. We went on a few walks and even donned our harnesses one day and climbed a few routes at their local crag.

Shenanigans on Tarzan...!

Il Sogno di Tarzan is a classic boulder problem in Val Masino. An amazing diagonal crack line with the crux in the first half. Although the top section is easy, it is still intimidating when topping out at 20ft. I'd tried the problem previously, but hadn't made the crux throw move. We were planning to leave the valley, but I really wanted one last go! It had just snowed loads and was very unlikely to be in condition.  To my surprise the bottom (hard section) was dry and the friction was great.  The only problem was that the upper (relatively easy) section looked a bit damp in places...

{Working the crux move before the snow came}

I really wanted to send the problem, so I decided to give it a go anyway...  I cruised the bottom section, finding the slopers easy to hold in the cold conditions. The upper section was wetter than it looked and my hands were soon soaked.  There aren't really any great foot holds and the rock was slimy and wet too.  Once in the upper section I realised the conditions were shocking.  There was an internal dialogue between the stubborn part of me who really wanted to send the problem and the rational part of me who was quite scared and thought I should bail.  The stubborn part won and I pushed on getting more committed and wondering if this was going to be a foolish decision.  I didn't look down once and the video provides amusing viewing... Il Sogno Di Tarzan 7B

Thank you Vistair

On leaving my job at Vistair before we came away my very generous work colleagues gave me loads of chocolate (which didn’t last long), some cash and Chad (The Cheater  - who unfortunately has lost his shorts as they were ‘freaking’ Jase out… =)

I just wanted to say thank you all at Vistair for your contribution – we spent our time in Val Di Mello in the Sasso Remano Camping – which was much more expensive than our normal accommodation budget.  So your contribution allowed us to stay here in this beautiful area for much longer than we would have and enjoy the awesome climbing.  

So thank you and miss you guys

Claire x      

A Post from Claire!

Hi yep I’m still alive… As you can probably tell from the last pics post of me looking like a drowned rat (thanks Jase).

So my shoulder is holding up ok – I’ve been doing some climbing but a lot less than Jase and doing my shoulder rehab exercises and a little running to keep me entertained.  The climbing in Mello is stunning but has a tendency to be quite powerful so I’ve been resting more than climbing to give my shoulder a chance to recover. 

I have done some really nice lines and even managing to flash a 6B arête (before Jase had done it which was a surprise!).  Unfortunately there are no photos as no one was really expecting me to get to the top on my first try.  I also made some really good progress on Ultimi Raggi 6C+ - maybe that will go next time.

Well that’s all for now I will keep you dated with progress (and try to update a little more!). X